Article in Observer 29th August 2001Posted by John Atack, Wednesday, August 8, 2001
I wonder if it really matters if the cafe is in't Brig or Tod provided that folk can get a decent meat tea. (As opposed to summat airy fairy from an establishment that has mob caps on the jam jars). Mind you, I can see the difficulty in directing people to Tod, it's probably beyond the ken of your average Chelsea Tractor driver. But seriously, and assuming the mantle of political correctness, what about a place that can offer something peculiar and locally typical? I recall the time when High Greenwood was prized for the quality of Mrs. Sunderland's Ham and Eggs and believe me, competition was fierce even if choice of menu in the district was limited. (No implied discredit to her son in this, times and circumstance change!) What about Dock Pudding? Does it freeze? Is it a year round menu item? Is the sweet dock sustainable if an uncontrolable influx of voracious visitors demand second helpings? This fine detail is precious as I discovered in Welsh Wales last week. We enjoyed a dinner that included roast beef accompanied by Yorkshire Pud. Sadly, despite the Chef's being born in Sheffield, the pud was sprinkled with several fragrant herbs. Because of this and the Gwyned air, it was not Yorkshire Pud A.C. (I ate it anyway.) What a pity that the Chef had chosen to practice in Wales and not, as we later discovered, taken up the opportunity to open up near Stoodley Pike with Ham and Eggs and unadulterated puddings.